In The Galley

In The Galley: Visiting Hurricane Restaurant – a “serendipitous decision”

Joan Harlow

New Hampshire Seacoast Times

Since Whistling Oyster’s demise, there hasn’t been any reason to go to Perkins Cove, or so I thought. Well! Earlier this spring I discovered that I had been missing out on something pretty fine. Tucked most of the way around the one way there is a small building with a set of steps, a sign saying HURRICANE and on close inspection, a sample menu. It was about three o’clock on a dismal Sunday afternoon, and the faint sounds of live jazz barely reached the street. Damp and chilled, we decided to go in and get warm and have a drink. That turned out to be a serendipitous decision. Hurricane is a great place, open year round. My only regret is not to have found it sooner.

The inside of Hurricane is intimate as anyplace can be whose whole end is blown away in a wide expanse of glass looking out over the water and up the coast. However, as the menu states proudly, food prepared here will bring you attention back to the matter at hand. The dishes offered are an eclectic choice from around the world. It is obvious that someone in the kitchen loves to eat, and has chosen flavors and textures to excite and please even the most jaded palate.

We decided to return soon for a meal, and made reservations several days ahead for a Saturday evening. Unfortunately we had to wait almost 3/4 of an hour past our reserved time for our table. (A stubborn party of tourists finished their meal long since, and took no hint to leave.) The management did the best they could to give the lingering tourist their leisure and at the same time make us comfortable with our long wait. Finally we were seated, and our waiter hastened to make us comfortable. The wait staff here is my idea of perfect, by the way. They are not snobbish, as is the case in some places which serve elegant food. they are friendly without being puppy-ish or sloppy. They all appear to know the food they are serving, and they represent it very well.

We were given time to study the menu and the wine list. In case you’re not at home with names of wines on a page, the card here is divided up in categories, light or great whites and robust or soft reds. Each category has several choices which are available by the glass. the wait staff has been schooled and are very helpful if you want guidance.

The menu here has a feature which I wish other restaurants who serve interesting food would imitate. There is a substantial list of choices under the heading “Small Plate.” When confronted with ten or twelve tempting dishes, I hate to limit it to one selection. there were three of us that evening and we sampled a lot of different things. We tried the Caesar salad for two, and the house salad, which is made with fresh field greens, pistachios, roasted whole shallots, served with a cracked pepper dressing. The Lobster chowder is an elegant version of this classic soup, and there is a lot of sweet lobster meat in it. The shredded duck with Shitake Mushrooms over fresh pasta was very mild, but the Grilled Chicken Satay was a treat with its slightly spicy peanut sauce. Swordfish glazed with Cuervo and Lime was served with a blackbean and white corn salsa, and the portion was generous. Veal Medallions in a Béarnaise and Caper sauce disappeared before I could get a taste. You can see that there is a great deal to choose from. Filet, Rack of Lamb, Crispy whole fish in an Oriental Black Bean Sauce, these had to wait for another time. Throughout the meal we enjoyed the wonderful sourdough bread which is made by the new bakery, When Pigs Fly. We ended our evening with a complimentary espresso (in a gracious gesture to apologize for our long wait). The bill for three including tax and tip was only $77.

Recently, I took a friend with me for another visit, and am delighted to report that everything remained superb. This time we got a look at things in summer evening sunlight. The front railings are smothered with potted herbs, sprigs of which obviously find their way into the kitchen. This time there was no wait, and our table was one of the best, right by the window. It was a joy to watch the tide come in over the rocky beach, and indulging ourselves with some great food and drink.

Since my first visit, the menu has changed a bit. The crispy fish is gone, replaced by Fresh Lobster stuffed shells with a Gorgonzola Sauce. Also new on the menu is the Beal Chop with Armagnac Demiglaze. Because this is Ogunquit, and the traveling public expects it, Boiled or baked Stuffed Lobster has made its appearance for the Summer. I was tempted by the Five Onion Soup with Gorgonzola Crust, (this recipe has been requested by both Bland Appetites and Gourmet), but decided instead on the wonderful House Salad and the Veal Chop, which was superb. My guest preferred to eat a little lighter and ordered the Caesar Salad and a Napoleon Smoked Salmon with Lemon-Chive Crème Fraiche. Her salad was excellent, but the Napoleon didn’t work as well. The salmon itself was first rate, not too salty or oily as poor quality salmon is, but the delicate waffled potato crust lost its crispiness when it came in contact with the fish and the fresh lettuce. The appearance was pretty, and the combination of flavors great. Only the texture was disappointing, a brave innovation which didn’t quite work.

We toyed with the idea of dessert. Crème Tiramisu, and something called Chocolate Paradise, seven layers with a sabayon mousseline, all sounded wonderful, but we settled for decaff espresso.

After these repeated visits, I intend to become a regular customer at Hurricane. Unlike the Whistling O., mere mortals can afford to dine on excellent food more than once in a blue moon (Our meal the second evening was $50, including two drinks each and espresso, before tax and tip.) The food is interesting and well prepared. Nowhere is the service better. The physical plant is charming and the view, well it’s the Maine Coast. Even if you hate crowds, remember Hurricane is still there when the tourists have gone home, so this is a definite destination for winter Sunday Brunch.

Hurricane Restaurant, Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. Open lunch and dinner, Jazz brunch until 4 p.m., Sunday. Not wheelchair accessible. Two small dining rooms, one smoking, one non. Reservations obligatory, any time. (207)-646-6348.